Wednesday, December 31, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
At the start of 2009, we have to add another 1 to the countdown as there is a leap second that was put in place by the International Earth Rotation and Reference System Service. As the Earth's rotation is slowing down in very small increments, the total of 1 second was reached this year. Apparently the rotation od the Earth is slowing down at an average of 0.002 seconds per day resulting a leap second to be added to keep modern timekeeping in sync with the Earth's rotation.
Check out this report for more information.
- HT
Cortina Watch - one of the top three watch retailers in Singapore for luxury watches was reported today in ChannelNewsAsia that its Raffles City Branch had almost 8 million dollars worth of its watches stolen on Christmas night.
This loss is expected to have a negative impact on Cortina's accounts and its share value. Probably the largest heist in the history of Singapore watch industry this daring theft would also impact on the other watch retailers enforcing a higher level of security - in addition to the huge vaults already found on each of the retail premises.
Watch retailers here would probably have adequate business and stock insurance and should not suffer too heavily from such an daring crime in the heart of one of the busiest shopping centres in Singapore. Investigations are still on going but so far no specific news is available about whether the stolen goods are close to being recovered.
-HT
Update: Latest report seems to indicate that the heist was in fact a suspected inside job by one of Cortina's employees. I will update on this story as it unfolds through the local media.
Tuesday, December 30, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
This report had been delayed for some months now as I found myself rather at odds with it. While it took me some time to process the photographs - I kept wanting to put off writing and publishing the report. I had earlier reported my views of the watch although I had not yet publish my images.
There was after all much fanfare heralding the launch of the HM3, a watch that had been covered by almost all the important watch magazines and forums. The HM3 was an attempt to break with the norm by pushing the boundaries of how to tell time with a two cut-off cone displays. A watch that crys out for attention and for those who seek cutting edge design. Priced at over 100,000SGD, its not for the faint of heart as well.
A watch which I had looked forward to viewing and photographing. It is exciting and ground breaking in terms of design but it does not ring out to me like a Vianney Halter Antiqua does - in terms of being a design piece. Possibly it could be that I am a classicallist and that a watch should be able to provide the wearer effortless means to read the time. I think the HM3 is the hardest to read of all the models offered by Max Busser.
But I am beginning to see a niche market of collectors who do not buy watches to tell time but to be seen as having something definitively special and identifiable from the rest of the collectors. I think this watch is targetted for that audience.
But does it deserve its price tag and all the attention it has received? Look for yourself and be the judge. Click on the image to see the collection of images.
- HT
Wednesday, December 24, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
Finally, a brand that heard collectors who have a deep passion for beautiful movements and wanted to see on the dial side what is usually hidden in the back. GO put together this wonderful watch with its intricately engraved double swan neck balance wheel on the front of the watch instead of hiding it away. It may not be a tourbillon but the whole escapement is a joy to look at. The three quarter plate - apart from the watch subdials looks like the usual three quarter plate that one finds on GO's movement backs. The red rubies and blued screws give nice accents and detail to the dial. This is one of my personal favourites of this year's offering from GO and I glad to see how the German company is readily pushing ahead in the design stakes.
Click on the image to view the high resolution images of this watch.
- HT
Sunday, December 21, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 4 Comments
This large stainless steel automatic sports watch from Glashuette Original features a beautifully crafted tourbillon. It also has a large date window just below the 12 marker. From the photo of the watch on the right, the big date somehow seems much smaller due to the overall size of the watch. Designed with red accents on the dial as well as the strap. Its wonderfully crafted and finished.
This is yet another watch from GO that exemplifies how much it has moved away from the early conservative designs that many had complained about. While I am glad to see how GO is willing to try to push itself in terms of becoming a more fashionable brand, I am not sure that an expensive tourbillon with this price tag should be housed in a sports watch much less, in stainless steel. It seems quite a contradiction that a delicate tourbillon cage is found inside a stainless steel sports watch.
Notwithstanding, in the metal, this watch is quite substantial, well made with presence and feels wonderful on the wrist. To view the images of this watch, simply click on the image above.
-HT
Friday, December 19, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 5 Comments
About two years ago, I reported here on the gorgeous Athys Limited Edition with is intricate hand carved flowing bridges IWC Calibre 98 movement. With its white dlial and white gold case, it was a handsome timepiece on the wrist. Since then, Daniel Roth has created a mainstream version of the watch which while handsome, the movement is nowhere close in terms of aesthetic beauty. This version I photographed at the Hour Glass, the Authorised Dealer for DR, some weeks ago, is an eye catching black dial on rose gold case. In this combination, the watch looks even more contemporary and could be used as both a dress or work watch.
But photographing this piece, it makes me regret even more how much I miss the Athys Limted Edition.
Click on the images to view the high resolution versions.
-HT
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
I read the report of this handsome timepiece with some interest but soon after, it gave me much amusement. Admittedly, it may be something to do with the coming yuletide season.
This watch has the added function of a transponder for the vaunted Aston Martin DBS - so that the wearer need not carry keys and use the clicking crystal and bezel as the locking and unlocking function for the car. It made me wonder if JLC had made a mistake to develop this function for a watch.
If the owner of an Aston Martin could only get in and out of the car with this watch, he certainly will not be able to wear any other watch if he to drive the DBS (unless of course he is one of the growing weird who wears two watches).
So it seems that an owner who is a watch enthusiast cannot have a large collection of watches unless he has a large collection of cars - or keep the watches and get a set of keys for his DBS. In either case, there is only a small cachet of Aston Martin owners and within that group JLC will find an even smaller cachet of watch collectors who would want this watch.
- HT
Monday, December 15, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 3 Comments
In the face of global financial crisis watch brands are being hit from all sides. Rising costs, currency fluctuations, falling demand for luxury goods and heightened competition. I posted earlier how the Chinese watch market has moved from being an indirect to direct threat to the Swiss industry where interests there not just make parts for Swiss watchmakers but also bought into major parts suppliers in Switzerland. Even reporters are saying that in the not too distant future, China made watches would become as good as Swiss watches. If anyone doubts that possibility, one only need to see how well the top grade fake watches coming out of China are made today.
If anyone thinks that this is an impossibility, just read this article in the International Herald Tribune. Most brands have learnt that enforcement of their intellectual property rights in China is an uphill task so they resort to using alternative security features. Vacheron Constantin seems to have taken the lead in implementing several complicated methods to slow down counterfeiters. This includes engraving on the crystal as well as special polymer crests that can be viewed only with UV light.
Unfortunately for Vacheron, the IHT reports that the counterfeiters have already managed to make copies of the Quai De l'ile - the watch reputedly made with all the new anti pirate security measures.
How then will the current situation pan out? I suspect with some certainty that some brands from Switzerland (and probably a few Non-Swiss as well) will fold and declare bankruptcy. Also, unfortunately contrary to my hope to see Swiss brands return to their strengths and be 100% Swiss Made, even more brands (at least the lesser brands) will be compelled to bring in Chinese partners or suppliers to keep their operating costs down.
- HT
Sunday, December 14, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 7 Comments
While MB&F is in the process of marketing its HM No.3 they delivered a new Titanium HM No.1. A Limited Edition of only 10 pieces, this watch is identical to the original HM No.1 in every way save for two details.
In this model, the case is now made of polished Titanium and a part of the bezel is now made of translucent grey mirror finished crystal which gives the dial a little more contrast. These difference was enough to entice me to photograph this watch again - at least this time with mirrors and coloured backdrops.
This Serial No. 8 -photographed at The Hour Glass Millennia - belongs to an unnamed collector - is still as substantial and impressive as the original.
Click on the image to view the images in high resolution.
This Serial No. 8 -photographed at The Hour Glass Millennia - belongs to an unnamed collector - is still as substantial and impressive as the original.
Click on the image to view the images in high resolution.
- HT
Postscript - I just discovered and corrected the fault in the previous links. Click on the image above to see the high resolution of the four images I have of this watch.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 3 Comments
I recently photographed this beautiful new Breguet Messidor and was awed by something special. I photographed other variations of Messidors before but this one had a tourbillon cage that appears to be completely unconnected to any other part of the movement giving the illusion that its floating and suspended in mid air.
Take a close look at the tourbillon cage closeup in my set of images - and see if you can spot a physical connection of the balance wheel to the movement.
To see the images of this watch, click on the image on the right. Can you figure it out how the watch works?
-HT
My thanks to the Hour Glass for allowing me to photograph this watch on their premises at the Millennia branch.
Thursday, December 11, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 4 Comments
Mr Andreas Loffler of La Boutique Swiss, a watch distributor in Eastern Europe visited Singapore together with Mr Wilhelm Rieber (see report below). At the same dinner Mr Loffler showed us Armin Strom watches which he brought along to show his friends and collectors here. Armin Strom is currently being marketed to Eastern Europeans and does not have representation in Asia and he wanted to garner the impressions the watches he had from the small group of us at the dinner.
While Mr Loftler had about a dozen watches with him from the Armin Strom collection, this simple skeleton watch caught the most attention. The watches from Armin Strom are large - conforming to today's demands but the cases are well made with a characteristic bezel extension located below six marker.
The strength of the watches from Armin Strom is the ornately engraved movements. The engraving is very well done for the asking price. Click on the image to view the close ups of this skeleton watch. Its embodies Armin Strom's strength which is the hand engraving of the dial side as well as the movement side of the watch.
Will we see this brand being sold here in Singapore or Asia? Possibly - but it will depend on what Mr Loftler discovers from collector's views on his fact finding tour.
- HT
Tuesday, December 09, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
The Lange Cabaret Tourbillon was launched earlier this year and more recently, the new 3G iPhone arrived on our shores here in Singapore. While these two have nothing in common, I happen to find a nice app that put a watch in my iPhone with the look of the new Cabaret Tourbillon.
Its a simple app that displays the time and date with moving second hands as well as a moving balance wheel. Unfortunately the designers made a small error in making the second hand move like a digital second hand. I am rather impressed by the overall look of this app which would surely please many Lange fans and collectors.
I think watch brands should consider working in conjunction with software app companies to develop such nice little apps as they clearly are a great way to market the watches. At least this is a much more palatable development to what I reported in this post on how some watch brands are looking to break into the mobile phone market.
-HT
Postscript - I was just reminded that I missed out providing iPhone users a link to this gem. You can find it at - http://tausendstern.com/timepiece.html
Sunday, December 07, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 7 Comments
There are many reports espousing the insidious threat of the Chinese watch making industry on the purity of Swiss watchmakers, but this is the first time I read an article that claims how China may one day soon become a direct competitor to Switzerland in terms of watch making quality.
Some time back I reported on the real impact of Chinese made parts being used in some Swiss brands which still calls itself as "Swiss Made" because they are able to do it within limits of the description set by the Swiss regulators. While there had been efforts to clarify this and a campaign to raise that requirement from 50% to 60%, not much success seems to have been achieved.
Rather than wait for some concerted effort, I would suggest that the few honest Swiss brands that continue to make their watches completely in Switzerland to make a daring step forward. Brands that had successfully avoided any foreign or non-Swiss elements in its watches should proudly advertise with a tag line - "100% Designed, Made and Assembled in Switzerland".
Better still, if the regulators are able to certify such claims, it would be a true claim of Swiss craftsmanship. Clearly this would create a two clear groups of brands - those able to claim "100%DMAS", and those who cannot.
Clearly brands with such right of claim would have products that deserve a premium over the pretenders. The problem I believe, is that there would only be a small handful of watch companies that can make such claims. Dufour and Rolex comes to mind.
Michael Porter - the famous author of "Competitive Advantage" theory, used the example of why the Italian shoemakers continue to make economic profits even though they sell the most expensive shoes in the world. Its the competitive advantage of being able to make shoes with the best designs and best materials using the best methods using the best names. No shoe maker in the East can replicate that and thus sustainable competitive advantage of being known as the world's best shoe makers continue to this day. The italian shoemakers do not outsource their production - and similarly, for the sake of quality, branding and competitiveness, Swiss watchmakers must turn around and realise that outsourcing will ultimately destroy their competitive advantage because its no longer sustainable advantage.
In the world of free enterprise, for their sake, I hope that the honest brands who are able to advertise such claims do it soon. Otherwise they may not benefit from the goodwill of being Swiss Made. In the coming years I expect that claim will become harder to make and that the insidious China encroachment will have been too much to stem.
- HT
Postscript - I would also would like to make the same suggestion to the German watchmakers as they are facing the same risk threat from the Chinese. "100% Made in Germany" should prove to be of some value and provide a competitive edge as well.
Friday, December 05, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 9 Comments
Here are my images of the hand made Platinum Wilhelm Rieber Tourbillon inlaid with blue mother of pearl. While the watch wins no prizes for aesthetic design, its a classical tourbillon with lovely Teutonic feel.
The applied gold markers and hands is a welcomed feature and the huge elevated tourbillon cage is quite handsome and finished. Interestingly, both the case and the dial is made of platinum.
This No.8 now belongs to a collector who asked to be kept anonymous - is able to lay claim to be the only collector here in Singapore to own a Rieber Tourbillon. Also on order for the customer is a special order platinum bracelet to match the watch. I do not know of any other watch that has both the case and bracelet made completely of platinum. It will certainly be a very heavy piece of jewelry on the wrist.
Click the photo on the right to see the high resolution images of the watch.
- HT
Wednesday, December 03, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Over the weekend, Mr Wilhelm Rieber, the German independent watchmaker who builds his tourbillons for a very select clientele was in town to deliver one of his precious pieces to a collector in Singapore. Mr Kelvin Lim of Dickson Watch hosted a dinner for a small select group to meet and learn more about Rieber's watches.
I googled Rieber and found very precious little of the man and his watches. What I did find, was most interesting. Featured in Europa Star, he was one of two German independant watchmakers featured in an article. The other is Volker Vyskocil.
Mr Rieber was commissioned by Mercedes Maybach to deliver special editions of his watch to Maybach owners. Rieber's watch features a wonderfully huge three dimensional and flying tourbillon cage above the 6 marker. The tourbillon at a diameter of 14.8mm is amongst the largest in the watch world. Apart from the crystal, case and dial, the watch is completely made from scratch by Mr Rieber.
The painstaking process of building each watch takes him six months for each tourbillon and he makes them to order for types of precious metals as well as dials. We were shown the piece he was to deliver - a beautiful silver dial inlaid with blue mother of pearl. I photographed the watch as well as the portrait above at the restaurant. Expect to see my images of this timepiece sometime this week. So do return to view it.
In the meantime, to learn more about Mr Rieber and his watches, visit his homepage. Unfortunately, its in German and the Google translator does not seem to make an accurate translation of the pages.
- HT
Monday, December 01, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
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