The Vacheron team hosted a small tasteful private dinner at restaurant Xi Yan renowned for its art decor and wonderful creative cuisine. It was a gathering of friends to celebrate the lunar new year and to enjoy good food and conversation. As with the tradition here in Singapore, every lunar new year dinner begins with the ceremonial "Lohei" - for the unfamiliar, it is the tossing of seafood salad concoction by all guests (as high as possible with the longest available chopsticks) developed over the years by Chinese chefs in the region but popularised first in Singapore before taking root in the region.
The expectation from the guests was high as most have dined here before and each time we are rewarded with new culinary masterpieces that excites the senses. Vacheron has consistently hosted gastronomical experiences and this one will be remembered along with the many wonderful soirées I have had the fortune to enjoy. (Click on the images below to view them in high resolution.)
May this new year of the Dragon bring to VC ever more fortune both here and abroad!
Monday, February 06, 2012
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
In yet another case of crime in the luxury watch industry here in Singapore (following the Cortina case not long ago), news broke today about the boutique manager from Panerai disappearing with customer's payment for watches ordered.
Reported to day in the Straits Times, Mr Terence Quek allegedly disappeared with a sum of over SGD$100,000 apparently being payment from customers. Details of what had happened seems fairly vague but investigations appear to be ongoing.
Here is a high resolution collage of images photographed of the new Planet Ocean Liquidmetal Titanium. Earlier last week I published an underwater image of this watch and here are the images showing the details of this new model. Not obvious in these images is the unmistakable tone of the titanium yet it has the unfamiliar polished details not commonly seen in titanium cases. The positive change in the design of the bracelet is that only the sides of the bracelet is high polished leaving the remaining link surfaces to brushed finish. The ceramic bezel and the flushed liquidmetal numerals is the hallmark of this watch distinguishing it from other ceramic bezel watches in the market today. The new model also features a machine polished Caliber 8600 which has the new co-axial escapement and silicium balance hairspring. All designed to provide for a more accurate movement as well as one that promises longer intervals in between services. Unfortunately this watch is rarely seen in the stores as they are snapped up as soon as they arrive at the stores and boutiques - despite having a high premium list price.
Click on the image above to view it in high resolution.
Gunter Blumlein was a visionary that made a few brands into recognised names. He brought repute to old brands with his intuitive and cutting edge leadership and management. Most critically his management of Lange & Sohne and IWC probably made these two brands the most respected in the Richemont stable.
The key to his enduring legacy is that he understood how serious collectors viewed watches and what is expected in a great brand. The Swiss watch industry lost its leading light with his passing.
CLICK on the image above to read the tribute published by IWC about Blumlein who passed away in October 2001.
Tuesday, January 17, 2012
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
What better way is there than to start the new year by meeting up with old friends (and make new ones) and fellow collectors over good food? This time about 30 collectors met at the Le Chassuer Restaurant in Chinatown with the themes (1) the latest acquired pieces in 2011 and (2) Rolexes.
The restaurant location and decor belies the good quality of the food served. The collectors were unanimously pleased with the fare and I personally would readily recommend it. Here is a collage of the dishes served.
The watches acquired by collectors this year (as well as Rolexes) reflects how well the brands have succeeded (or failed) to garner excitement or interest from collectors. The most interesting piece on the table that was launched in 2011 was the MB&F Legacy Machine No.1. This watch is in fact a highlight piece of 2011 in my personal view. Worthy of the interest within the collecting circles even though it is priced beyond most collectors.
Is the clear lack of 2011 launched pieces on the table a reflection of the taste of collectors at the dinner or of the lack of interesting pieces? It may also be due to the escalating price increases that makes the new watches less exciting - possibly for the immediate and near future. Nevertheless, click on the images to view them in high resolution.
Interestingly though, it was a surprise to me how many Rolexes (both old and new) was brought by this small group of collectors. Notice the diverse models brought to the dinner and here is one of our friends modelling them all in good jest.
With the SIHH and Baselshow exhibition coming up very soon, all the collectors were sharing information and opinions on what is on offer. However, the biggest issue seems to be how the brands will price their new watches in light of the predicted economic crisis that has yet to take full effect on the world's economies.
That would be fodder for discussion when the collectors next meet - post Baselshow in a few months time.
- HT
Monday, January 16, 2012
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Over the new year weekend I had the opportunity to photograph the Blue Planet Ocean Big Size Titanium case with Titanium bracelet. Here is my first processed image of this huge 45.5mm watch. A more detailed photo report to follow. As usual click on the image to view it in higher resolution.
Tuesday, January 03, 2012
posted by Harry SK Tan1 Comments
This is one of the more interesting watches to be launched of recent years. While its not revolutionary for Urwerk, the design is still interestingly evolutionary from its current stable of designs. Not a large watch by comparison to many offerings of late by many brands, this watch still has a lot of presence on the wrist. It has a raw edgy look and feel which belies its exclusive luxury price tag.
I am certain that Urwerk fans will welcome this new design that succeeds in moving away from the UR-103 and UR-202 look and feel.
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
It is inevitable that knowledgeable and experienced collectors who had been collecting for many years, will begin to find today's watch prices unpalatable when compared with the prices of the same watches just a few years ago. With these street smart collectors, they are far more willing to return to the pre-owned market with confidence and far greater understanding of what they want and the prices of used beauties. For those who know what they are doing, there are still gems to be had and this is one instance of a valuable collectible found by an astute collector friend during a business trip overseas. Now completely restored one cannot imagine that this pocket watch is over 100 years old. Photographed here on top of the Lange reference book featuring the model a series of images of this wonderful timepiece and merged into a video for your viewing pleasure.
Unfortunately not everyone will be able to find such wonderful pieces to add to a collection but it gives hope for those who are passionate about horology - that despite the escalation of prices, there are still gems out there to be had.
In any event, with the anticipated financial crisis looming in the near future, those looking for more recent models may consider holding on to their funds and start looking around the pre-owned market and for sale forums for potential bargains.
Sunday, December 18, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan2 Comments
An Exhibition by Cartier showcasing its rich horological history is being held at the Marina Bay Sands Arts Science Museum from the 14 December 2011 to 12 February 2012. While Cartier is renowned as a luxury brand for other consumer luxury products, Cartier watches are readily familiar with both collectors as well fashionistas. One only have to visit this exhibition to learn about how the first Santos was known to be the world's first production wristwatch. Also displayed are the other historical clocks and significant watches made by the brand - all the way to the latest offering from this watch marque. The exhibition was designed by Tokujin Yoshioka - a prize winning designer and architect - who was engaged by Cartier to create an exhibition to demonstrate time as art.
The Swiss watch making industry is in fact enjoying a great year with record sales - despite the economic downturn in many countries. The main reason for this is the sustained or even growth in demand for luxury goods and luxury watches in the China market. But is the luxury goods industry recession proof? Clearly it depends very much on the disposable income and the willingness to continue such purchases in the target markets despite the much predicted global downturn.
Nevertheless, it is not often recorded in economic history that there is a growth in demand for luxury goods in times of economic downturn. Is it irrational behaviour or are the Chinese so flushed with cash that there is no particular concern about the global downturn coming ahead? Clearly the watch brands will be looking to pushing their watches in China more than any other parts of the world in the foreseeable future.
It was this rectangular gold Omega that was a gift from the then Irish Prime Minister. The watch was acquired by Omega and now displayed at the Omega Museum with the black and white photograph accompanying the watch in a glass case.
The Omega curators kindly allowed me the privilege of taking the watch out for a photo shoot. Following the trend of that time, the watch was a smallish watch by today's standard but it still had great presence on the wrist.
This was how the watch looked like on my wrist. An important watch belonging to one of history's most dynamic modern leaders.
For more information about this watch from official Omega site - CLICK HERE.
- HT
Sunday, November 27, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
It was such a great privilege that Omega hosted for us a candlelit dinner at the Omega Museum on our first night of our visit to the Omega Manufacture. Apparently this was the first time ever that a dinner was hosted at the museum. The dinner was catered by "E-Mulsion" and the chef was Mr Benoit Martin. The ambience was wonderful and it was very private as there were only 12 dining guests. Six bloggers and staff from Omega. The cuisine was French at its best and I particularly enjoyed the Filet de fera (or Filet of Freshwater Whitefish).
It was a night of horological heaven to enjoy a private event at a location filled with truly special and rare timepieces, with great food and wine - and of course intense horological discourse between the bloggers and Omega staff. Thank you Omega for hosting such a special horological event!
As always, click on the image below to view the collage in high resolution.
I wonder how many having read the article and watched the video was convinced that luxury watches is a viable alternative investment (as reflected by the byline). It is curious that in the video describes watch investment (comments that seemed to be left out in the article) as an "investment of passion". Unfortunately, they made no definition as what that phrase means but I wonder whether its a clever phrase to describe an investment that lacks cold and calculated financial reasoning?
More significantly the London second hand dealer actually says "I cannot say with a 100% that everything that is bought from my shop will guarantee to go up (in value)". Clearly in every specific investment market, there will be duds and there will pretenders trying to look like the blue chip deal. There are no quick bucks to be had and as with all kinds of investment - e.g. art, wine, cars etc) you just have to spend a a lot of time learning about horology and observing the watch market.
Interestingly, the narrator ends the recording by, "Remember this is a passion investment and do not bank on a profit..."
Saturday, November 26, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan2 Comments
The Omega Museum was first opened in 1984 but was recently refurbished and under the guidance of the current Curator Mr Brandon Thomas, the museum ably conveys the long history and achievements of the brand.
The museum has four rooms taking all of the second floor of the building. The first room houses all the important movements from its early history. The room is packed with movements from pocket watches as well as small clocks.
In the second or main room, complete watches was displayed including timing equipment for the Olympics, Apollo Space Programme related hardware and of course the James Bond watches. Important pieces owned by famous people including Presidents and Actors. The third room contained the collection consisting of models from different periods of Omega history. Early Constellation, Quartz, Seamaster are showcased. Finally the fourth room houses all the current models of Omega.
A visit to this museum for serious collectors is a must if one is in Switzerland. Spending half a day listening to the audio commentary at this free museum will be a rewarding experience.
I will be posting more about a few of the watches I found completely intriguing at this museum. Meanwhile, click on the image below to download and view the full high resolution image. Please note its a large file, so please be patient if you are not on high speed bandwidth.
Here is a fascinating video made by Omega about the museum. Well worth viewing.
If the Omega Museum is of interest, do also visit FratelloWatches (to read Robert Jan Broer's detailed report) as well as Hodinkee (by Mr Blake Bruettner).
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
One of the highlights of my trip to the Omega manufacture was the Co-Axial Assembly plant located up in the Jura District high up in the mountains. Spent half a day just learning and observing the whole assembly process of the new escapements in Caliber 8500 series. What struck me most was how labour intensive the whole process despite the use of high tech assembly line processes and use of RFID chips on each movement. Each Omega technician is tasked with one or two roles from the basic base plate all the way to testing. Expecting the assembly to be by robotics, the only time robotics are involved is inserting a few basic screws on the base plate and the transport of the movement through the whole assembly floor (click on the collage below to view it in a larger resolution).
The late George Daniels, inventor of the Co-Axial escapement crafted an escapement system intended to be more efficient and wear resistant. Now owned and perfected by Omega after years of testing which proves to be so reliable that it is the only luxury brand that provides a four year warranty on their new watches. Matched with a silicon balance spring the new escapement has provided the brand with a more consistent and temperature resistant movement providing accuracy that could easily match even tourbillons in the market today.
Has Omega discovered the grail solution to both reliability and accuracy? Based on their warranty promise as well as their statistical performance data of their Cal 9300 - it would seem Omega is confident that it has.
Here are two videos by Omega explaining how these two technologies are being harnessed for their watches today.
The Silicon Balance Spring
The Co-Axial Escapement
The one combination of the Co-Axial Escapement and Silicon Balance Spring is that caught my eye is the Calibre 9300 series found in the Seamaster Professional Co-Axial Chronograph. The version photographed below is the Titanium (Grade 5) with the "liquid-metal" bezel. The Grade 5 titanium allows it to be polished to a high shine like steel. The liquid-metal bezel is the fusion of metal onto a ceramic type compound making it extremely hard wearing and scratch resistant unlike other diving bezels that uses aluminium plates.
I am certainly enthusiastic about the achievements of the new Cal 9300 series movements. I just have to wait for Omega to release one with a 42mm titanium case to suit my taste.
- HT
Sunday, November 20, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
I just returned from a trip to Switzerland visiting the Omega Manufacture, dining with Mr Stephen Urquhart (President of Omega), spending a day at the new Omega Museum and then visiting the Omega Co-Axial assembly plant (observing in detail the assembly of the Calibre series 8500) as well as the very secretive Nivarox plant. More about these visits later here.
What is exciting is that Omega has apparently a host of significant new offerings for 2012. Most significant of these is the new James Bond movie (and of course the requisite Omega watch to match), the Speedmaster Anniversary and the London Olympics.
Mr Urquhart hosted a sumptuous lunch for the six invited bloggers (Mr Robert-Jan Broer from Fratellowatches, Mr Blake Buettner of Hodinkee, Mr Ariel Adams of ABlogToRead, Gabriel and Nicolas from Lesrhabilleurs and myself) on the first day of our visit and the conversation covered not only about news of the forthcoming watches but also sharing of how they are expanding their strategy in growing markets.
At the lunch, Mr Urquhart wore the new Titanium 45mm Seamaster Liquid Metal Co-Axial Chronograph on bracelet. The familiar blue dial and bezel in titanium is quite a large watch but I can see why many will be drawn to it. If Omega's new offerings are as daring and as dynamic as the Liquid Metal Co-Axial Chrono, it will be lots to look forward to.
Seiko's 130th Anniversary Road Show has finally arrived in Singapore having been to several locations including KL Malaysia recently.
Organised by Thong Sia (the regional authorised dealer for Seiko), the road show will be at Vivocity from 8th to 13th November 2011.
For enthusiasts of all things Seiko, this road show should prove to be a worthwhile visit. The road show will exhibit displays and historical timepieces from the Seiko Epson collection of watches. For connoisseurs, rare Grand Seikos and Spring Drives models will be shown as well as the Limited Edition 130th Anniversary timepieces.
- HT
Friday, November 11, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Earlier this year at a pre-Basel lunch showcasing the 2011 Hamilton models, a select group of collectors had the great fortune of inspecting and handling the new models - which turned out to be a surprise as many of the models had so much to offer to watch enthusiasts (see this report). Apart from the affordability of this brand, Hamilton has had a long (albeit inconsistent) history. Of recent years, most of the attention was given to the Ventura range made famous by Elvis and its connection with the Men in Black movie (worn by Will Smith).
However, 2011 is to be a year where Hamilton takes stock of its historical pieces, rendering its popular pieces from the 70s in today's higher quality materials and finish. Many of the 2011 models caught my eye but none more so than the Pan-Europ 1971 (which is a limited edition model of only 1971 pieces worldwide). It has all the hallmarks of early 1970s designed case and rally style leather strap. It is a big watch with a case size of 45mm.
For some years now, I have been avoiding larger watches but I somehow was willing to make this exception due to vintage look and feel and most of all the beautiful metallic blue hue of the dial and bezel. As many have come to discover, the dividing line between the quality makes and the run of the mill - is in the details. I am especially impressed by the dial work for the design of the high contrast subdials against the blue dial.
The watch comes with a folding buckle deployant that sites the tongue on the inside of the strap while its being worn. I have not seen the quality of the fit and finish of such deployants at this price point - USD2100 or SGD 2520.
For movement fanatics, the Pan-Europ is fitted with the new Calibre H31 (H for Hamilton) which is a modified Valjoux providing a 60 hour power reserve - a reflection of how the Swatch Group is developing specific movements for the brands in its stable and how important this model is.
The watch feels balanced and substantial on the wrist. Not overly heavy nor uncomfortably big. For collectors who are not brand snobs, I would recommend this model for its historical significance and fun value of being a weekend watch. It will be quite a task to find another watch with so much going for it at this price point today. As always, click on the images to view them in higher resolution.
On the 16th to 18th September 2011, GP hosted a short but very impressive exhibition of its historical collection of timepieces at the newly opened Art & Science Museum at the Marina Bay in Singapore. It is the first stop in a world wide tour of the watches of this much respected brand. GP still remains an independent brand that continues to provide its fans and customers with quality and in some instances, in my opinion, surpassing even the supposedly popular revered brands that the public are more familiar with. GP's three gold bridges continue to enamour both new and old collectors - once they study how well finished the movement of the tourbillons are.
At this exhibition, its not just the tourbillons that impressed visitors. Have a look at how comprehensive the historical collection of this watch marque.
CLICK HERE to view video of my photo report in 720p High Definition.
Monday, October 17, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Recently the new brand, Louis Moinet arrived in town to host a small reception to show off its timepieces at an art gallery in Singapore and to deliver its first piece - a Geograph Rainforest - to a Singaporean, none other than Dr Bernard Cheong.
The new brand has a very small annual output of watches and describes itself as purveyor of mechanical art pieces. The Geograph delivered to Dr Cheong features a petrified palm wood from Malaysia and each watch sold will result in a substantial contribution to the Pulau Banding Foundation - a foundation to support the protection of the tropical forest of Belum Temengor.
Saturday, October 15, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
While it has not been as frequent as in the past, I still get inspired by other's creativity to create images that brings out the best of the subject that I photograph. The LM1 is such a watch and due to its huge domed crystal, capturing the watch with minimal incident reflection was a monumental hurdle. Not to mention, I only had a very short time in a restaurant to do this! Fortunately for me, experience helps with such tough assignments and I succeeded to capture what I believe is the soul of this watch through a collage of images. Click on the image below to download a high resolution image. (Please Note the Copyright - All Rights Reserved)
Today Max Busser hosted a small lunch for friends and collectors to show his new Legacy Machine No.1. This watch created quite a buzz on the Internet with keen collectors anticipating in agony and eagerly awaiting for yet another instalment of MB&F imaginative creations. The Legacy Machines series is a completely new line of watches from the Horological Machines series.
Even before the official release of of the embargo on the publication of the press kit photographs, several fans and forums had already published images of the watch.
However, much to my pleasure, I believe this is the first time the watch is photographed on the wrist of its creator, Mr Max Busser. (Click on the image to view it in larger format)
More about the launch coming up in the next post here.
Thursday, October 06, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Some years ago, it was fashionable for celebrity men to wear pierced earrings. Some diehards still wear them today, e.g. just recently, Morgan Freeman was seen wearing one on his right ear to his Lifetime Achievement award given to him by the American Film Institute. When it first started, it was intended to reflect the rebellious nature of the wearer. When it became a fashion statement, it was the rave and now in its slow end of its fashion value, fewer and fewer men are seen with one.
In contrast to men wearing women's earrings, today we have celebrity women wearing men's watches. It started out with Rolex sports watches some years ago but women are now gravitating to watches with cases over 44mm. The most popular of which are Panerai 44mm Marina models (I have yet to spot any women wearing the cushion case or submersibles). The other popular watch with women is the Cartier Santos 100 - a larger version of the square watch designed originally for men. This trend however seems to be growing popular - for now.
Is the trend of the rich and famous - and the trend of the fashion conscious - for more personal jewellery to derive from the opposite sex? I personally hope not. Just as the trend for men wearing women's hair bands disappeared (thankfully) some years back, I look forward to the demise of the fashion of wearing gear from the other sex.
Fortunately, many of the fashion houses that retail their house brands such as Hugo Boss, Fossil etc. do make large ladies watches with faux jewels. Hopefully watches houses will satiate the demand for big watches for women - with designs specifically for women. That would seem to be an untapped market opportunity.
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan1 Comments
The new Bulgari Endurer Chronosprint ALL BLACKS is a watch that uses the Daniel Roth chronograph for the collaboration with the famous New Zealand ALL BLACKS rugby team. The key feature of this watch that distinguishes it from other limited editions is the distinctive dial that shows of a Maori design.
The watch features the in-house made DR 1306 automatic movement with large date display - is a comparatively large watch.
On the reverse of the watch is a dark translucent crystal etched with the fernleaf logo of the All Blacks Team. The translucent crystal shows off the automatic chronograph movement.
Bulgari will be producing only 500 of these limited edition watches and the first piece just arrived at Dickson Watches in Singapore.
-HT
Sunday, September 04, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan2 Comments
Urwerk's Felix Baumgartner was in town yesterday to show off the new Zeit Device.
The iPhone sized automatic pocket timepiece is the culmination of the achievements and innovation of the Urwerk brand. It keeps track of the seconds, minutes, hours, date, month, year and 100 year intervals with a record all the way to 1000 years. It also has a 5 year interval period indicator for a reminder to have the movement lubricant change. The annual calendar system featured in this timepiece results in the owner having to change over the date only once a year on February 28 (it is curious why this is preferred over a perpetual calendar - which is considered a more complete and a higher horological feature which would allow Urwerk to claim the device never need to be date adjusted for 1000 years).
The case is made of steel coated with Aluminium Titanium Nitride which gives it a raw feel - very much like those found in top quality industrial tools. In the hand, the Zeit Device feels like a mobile phone - especially due to its flip out backplate. The first thing that comes to mind is how heavy the Zeit Device feels in the hand. One would say that it is almost too heavy to be carried around as a pocket watch but that is not the Zeit Device's primary purpose. Its a object d'art - to be appreciated as one.
Only be 8 pieces of this device will be made and priced at S$666,000 - these mechanical art pieces will only be found on the table (with its docking station) of the very most well heeled collectors with a penchant for working mechanical art. For more information on the Zeit Device - CLICK HERE.
CLICK on the images above to view them in high resolution.
-HT
Friday, September 02, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Chopard LUC shared with its friends and collectors the secrets of the Urushi dials in July at the Chopard Boutique in Singapore. Master Minori Koizumi was on hand to demonstrate the painstaking process of creating Urushi and Maki-e dials. Here is a video montage of the images captured at the demonstration - where guests were also able to try their hand at painting on Urushi plates to appreciate the difficulties of painting in this form.
Thursday, September 01, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan2 Comments
ONLY WATCH 2011 is a bi-annual event where the top brands of horology craft rare singular pieces to be auctioned off for the proceeds to benefit the research on child muscular dystrophy. The watches are currently on tour to various cities around the globe and on its second stop after Bangkok, in Singapore on 30th August 2011, the event was hosted by The Hour Glass at the Malmaison boutique. Many of the renowned collectors around the region was seen at the Malmaison where there were many senior representatives of the brands were on hand to share information on the unique pieces being displayed. As expected all the items were displayed behind glass and no one was allowed to handle any of the prized watches. Here is a collage of my images taken at the event. Click on the image below to view it in full resolution.
For more information about the forthcoming international auction CLICK HERE.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
posted by Harry SK Tan0 Comments
Welcome to
Watching Horologytm
This is a personal blog of Harry SK Tan on all things
pertaining to Horology - from
watch collecting, horolography, news and developments
from all over the world
particularly Singapore.