Tuesday, September 30, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
The U-Stealth (Right) unblurred by 50% (Uploaded 30/9/08) 30th Sept 2008 - Update#2
With the image made unblurred by 50% from the first, almost everything is coming into view. What remains are the details of how deep the grey the markers will be and how the bezel will look like on unveiling day.
Also note another morsel of information regarding the deployant - it will not be the small double butterfuly as in the Tempus U1 but a blackened larger deployant found on the original U1.
Only just a few more days to the launch of this watch on the 3rd October.
- HT
Anonimo is a Italian watch brand that is headquartered in Florence Italy. The brand in the past did not feature any model that interest me - until now. Often compared to another Florentine brand Panerai, that was sold to Richemont, the luxury brand conglomerate some years ago took that brand to stratospheric commercial success. Anonimo has had limited world wide success but has some strong dedicated collectors in Japan and the region here.
In 2007, Anonimo launched this special limited edition watch with Bronze case for its Japan market. With apparent high resilience to seawater exposure, it is expected to perform well with high water resistance. Due to the nature of bronze, the case texture is clearly different from the normal stainless steel cases and has a tendency to oxidise. Above the marker at six o'clock is a simple Florentine coat of arms an emblem reflecting the colorful history and culture of the ancient capital city of Florence.
The watch is fitted with the trusted ETA2824-2-based movement at the frequency of 28800bps with 40-hour power reserve. It also features a manual helium gas valve crown. At 42mm diameter the watch should be considered a big watch but in today's context, it is now the norm for diver's watches.
The watch seen here is owned and worn by my friend, Professor of Economics, Massimiliano Landi of Singapore Management University (photographed at Dickson Watch Suntec City - one of the local authorised dealers of Anonimo).
In 2007, Anonimo launched this special limited edition watch with Bronze case for its Japan market. With apparent high resilience to seawater exposure, it is expected to perform well with high water resistance. Due to the nature of bronze, the case texture is clearly different from the normal stainless steel cases and has a tendency to oxidise. Above the marker at six o'clock is a simple Florentine coat of arms an emblem reflecting the colorful history and culture of the ancient capital city of Florence.
The watch is fitted with the trusted ETA2824-2-based movement at the frequency of 28800bps with 40-hour power reserve. It also features a manual helium gas valve crown. At 42mm diameter the watch should be considered a big watch but in today's context, it is now the norm for diver's watches.
The watch seen here is owned and worn by my friend, Professor of Economics, Massimiliano Landi of Singapore Management University (photographed at Dickson Watch Suntec City - one of the local authorised dealers of Anonimo).
The images here shows off the nice patina of ageing bronze. This is the only other brand I know of apart from Gerald Genta's Gefica (featured here some months ago) that uses Bronze cases.
Although admittedly I am not a fan of Anonimo I am particularly impressed with this model. Bronze is still yet to be considered a mainstream metal for watch cases but the novelty and characteristic of the metal makes for interesting timepieces. Unfortunately this Japan Limited Edition model has since been sold out but Anonimo is currently retailing other models with bronze cases at Dickson Watch.
Click on the images to see them in high resolution.
posted by Harry SK Tan 3 Comments
Tomorrow night at the Singapore Four Season's hotel, will be the first Asian - Grand Prix d'Horlogerie of Geneva - the equivalent of the Oscar awards for the Swiss watch industry. At the Gala the Asian Watch of the Year 2008 will be given out (Click the image above to see full details) as well as the Awards are for the following categories: Best Mens, Ladies, Design, Sports, Jewelry, Full Calendar & Complications.
The shortlisted watches under consideration are found here. Come back soon to see my report of the Gala and Awards ceremony.
- HT
Monday, September 29, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
This weekend starting Friday 26th September the Singapore first Formula 1 night race takes off and after the tryouts on Friday and time trials on Saturday, tonight is the actual race itself. Massa, Hamilton and Raikonnen secured the top three positions and tonight's race promises to be a real thriller with the championships down to only one point difference.
The Formula 1 races always drawn great support from the watch brands and the following notable watches were made to commemorate the Singapore GP. The links lead to Horomundi reports on the limited edition pieces as well as some of the launch events held in Singapore recently.
1. Audemars Piguet Grand Prix Royal Oak Offshore.
2. Tag Heuer Grand Carrera Singapore Grand Prix
3. Chopard L.U.C. Tourbillon Tech Twist with Silicium Escapement
4. Gerald Genta's Mickey Racing Singapore
5. Richard Mille Felipe Massa RM011, Singapore F1 Limited Edition
6. Oris TT3 Grand Prix Limited Edition
- HT
Sunday, September 28, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Here it is, the glorious MT3. Stunning has been over used in the watch world but I think in this case, it is apt. Quite unlike the familiar watches of today, BLU MT3 is a dramatic tourbillon that showcases's Lederer's recognised skills as a AHCI master watchmaker. The movement is tells the time - much like the Ulysee Nardin's Freak but somehow this watch reflects a different persona. It may be its execution of a unfamiliar movement design and case. But observing how the balance wheel in its tourbillon mounting rotates around the dial is quite mesmerising. The bezel looks like its suspended by minature columns where crystals are set to allow light into the dial and the viewer to appreciate the fine movement. This watch is of a limited series and lists at S$500k.
To see the photomontage of this watch, CLICK HERE.
- HT
(Thanks to Dickson Watch Singapore for permitting me to photograph this watch at their premises at their retail outlet at Suntec City Singapore)
Friday, September 26, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 1 Comments
The U-Stealth (Right) unblurred by 25% (Uploaded 26/9/08)
26th Sept 2008 - Update #1
With the image 25% clearer, only two more before the complete unveiling. In the image above the dial markers are now coming to view although its still indistinct.
Sinn U1 Hour Glass Limited Editions (Image uploaded on 23/09/08)- Tempus U1 (Left - all sold out) and the new Sinn U Black to be launched 3rd Oct - which I nicknamed U-Stealth
23 Sept 2008
On October 3rd, the Hour Glass will have a launch party to unveil their latest Limited Edition from Sinn. I was honoured by being invited in March this year to work with the Hour Glass to see what ideas we could implement to make this watch as exciting or even more than the Tempus U1.
Its is similar to their earlier Tempus limited edition in terms of the general specifications but this time, it goes monochrome and all its markers, hands and logo insignia will be in dark grey.
On the first blueprint we worked we tried to see if the watch would look if the markers had in fact been in black and it was decided immediately that a completely black watch would not serve any purpose so we tried a dark shade of grey - which appears to work very well.
In addition to the dark grey changes, a suggestion I made that was implemented was the removal of the redundant minute markers on the rotating bezel (save for the minute markers between 0 to 15). This made the watch much more authentic to military specifications and I believe it makes the watch look a lot simpler with less overall clutter on the dial face.
The image above shows the Tempus U1 next to the intentionally blurred prototype U Black. I believe the final unveiled image here to be accurate representation of the delivered model.
As all photographs of the watch is embargoed till the 3rd, I will be posting periodical update to the image unblurring the new model image as the days go by until its final unveiling on the 3rd.
As I have also been accorded the privilege to be the first to photograph the watch, fans of the watch will be able to see my high resolution images of it on the October 3rd at 6pm on this site.
I also gave the new watch the nickname U-Stealth due to its much more low key appearance compared to the high contrast Tempus U1. Also, I think it would be useful to distinguish it in the future from the mainstream black tegimented U1 due out next year.
So if this watch excites you, come back regularly to see the changes to the image!
- HT
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
When I photographed the stunning MT3 Tourbillon, I found that this watch has a mysterious characteristic that made me want to study all its fine details. But of that later. The image above is Bernhard Lederer himself photographed here in Singapore when he was here for the launch dinner. In the background is dial of one of his watches which I used to depict the universe that Bernhard inhabits.
Come back soon to see the photomontage of the MT3.
- HT
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
There is only one addictive quality of Grand Seiko watches and that is its consummate quality of materials and finish. This particular piece, a SBGM001 belongs to me and I have had it since January this year and despite enjoying everything about it, I only just realised that I had neglected photographing it. It probably has to do with the fact that I had been distracted by the photographing important and rare watches belonging to friends and those at the Authorised Dealers (under tight schedules due to work commitments). Nevertheless, I am resolute to make sure that over the weeks ahead, I will be publishing more images of this GS.
In the image above, I had replaced the wonderfully made bracelet with a black crocodile strap on a OEM butterfly deployant. The change gives the watch a different character. Much less business like but still wearable to the office and being a Seiko, its stealthy to all save for aficionados of the brand. In time, I hope to try out a Kevlar strap - hopefully with red threading to see if it can create a more sporty look overall.
So far I have yet to successfully capture how the enamel like dial looks like there is a film of smooth water over it. With the applied markers and wonderful hands anglaged to perfection the face of the watch is clearly the hallmark of this model. This and other GS watches cannot be described as inexpensive but I believe I am not alone in describing them as works that far exceed the quality found in similar priced Swiss watches.
If you are a GS fan, come back soon to check out additional images of this piece.
- HT
Sunday, September 21, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
One of the great fortunes of having friends here in Singapore who are also collectors is that I get the chance to photograph their watches and in this case, I get yet another chance to photograph the Platinum Datograph. I have lost count how many time I had photographed this watch but I never tire of it partially because of how mesmerising the movement looks as well as how difficult it is to capture the black dial to show its beauty and glory in digital print. As I progress with skill and experience, I return to the Datograph to test my skills to see how if I had progressed - if any.
In these two images, I managed to capture the dial with all its markers properly lighted. Often the embossed roman numerals are indistinct but here I managed to provide a subtle highlight to them. As for the movement shot, I wanted to show off the variety of colours and tones found in the metals used and I shot it at an angle to show the many layers found on this wonderful movement.
It is with good reason why Philippe Dufour himself wears one of these beauties.
-HT
Friday, September 19, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 5 Comments
Following the report on the skeleton monopusher chrono tourbillon below, Zach Toh of Horomundi published a report of the Franc Vila launch dinner where he kindly used my dinner photographs to file the report. The dinner was held at a cosy restaurant owned by Chef Chan located at the Singapore Museum.
Check out the report through this LINK HERE.
- HT
Thursday, September 18, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
This new brand named after the founder himself was in Singapore this week to meet with local watch collectors and showcase his watches. While on hand was a very wide selection of watches, I chose to photograph the Skeleton Monopusher Chronograph Tourbillon as it was a dramatic looking timepiece. All the Vila watches are encased in an enormously large and tall case which is distinctive for its dial style. On the watch here, the chronograph module is found on the dial and if you look carefully enough, the column wheel can be seen at the top of the dial. The subdials do not show off any scales if one operated the chronograph but it looks like the function is more for aesthetic purposes than to be seriously used to time anything. The tourbillon cage is very well made and has an interesting motif. Overall the watch is massive and imposing. It lists for S$500k and would be only be within the reach of the truly well heeled.
Check out my images here to see for yourself whether the watch is worth its asking price.
- HT
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
This watch and its name would probably be unfamiliar to most collectors - possibly even the most seasoned campaigner. Franc Vila is a collector who decided that it was time that he turned his passion and his own watch perferences and ideas into production and created a new brand for those who yearned for large cased luxury timepieces. The brand has appointed Dickson Watch Singapore as its Singapore Authorised Dealer.
Come back soon to see my latest photomontage of this watch.
- HT
Sunday, September 14, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
News of the financial difficulties of Peacemark - the giant holding company with interests and huge holdings of brands and retail shops in East Asia based in Hong Kong - had been reported on the internet news services for some weeks. Europa Star published some interesting developments regarding some of the assets being liquidated to raise funds to deal with the debt that Peacemark owes.
Earlier this year before Peacemark was reported to be suffering its huge debt, it had acquired a controlling share of one of the three top watch retailers in Singapore - Sincere Watches.
Based on the report by Europa Star, whether the breakup of Peacemark will impact on the global watch industry is somewhat moot. The more important question now is the scope and depth of the impact on the connected or the competition.
To read the report by Europa Star CLICK HERE and HERE.
- HT
Based on the report by Europa Star, whether the breakup of Peacemark will impact on the global watch industry is somewhat moot. The more important question now is the scope and depth of the impact on the connected or the competition.
To read the report by Europa Star CLICK HERE and HERE.
- HT
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Over the past 10 years of IWC history, their Portuguese line of watches has become of the most important model lineup in the IWC stable due to its popularity with serious collectors looking for classic design and quality movements. The brand has a history of over 140 years now but the Portuguese only happen just this century. Born by a demand for highly accurate maritime wrist watch, two Portuguese merchants arranged for IWC to provide them with wrist watches with pocket watch movements. At that time, the closest thing to Maritime Chronometer quality. While accuracy was their paramount concern, its the design that made the watch a classic. Considered astronomically huge back then, the 42mm watch today is no longer considered to be a big watch where cases have gone up to 47mm.
Portuguese Chronograph, Jubilee Rose Gold and Automatic 7 Days
For many including myself, the elements of the Portuguese is its austere dial design, arabic numbers, sword hands and a very thin bezel. The variety of spin off models are numerous but these elements always remain. It seems the uncluttered dial and the thin bezel lent it to being seen as classical or dressier design.
The original design is reflected in the commemorative Jubilee (seen above, middle) with dots as minute markers and a small sub-second at 6. The Chrono is identical save for fine minute calibrated lines for the chronograph function and the bicompex subdial minute and seconds counter at 12 and 6 respectively. The Auto 7 Day has instead its two subdials at 9 and 3.
One other lesser appreciated element of the design is how the case looks from the front is almost always the same. However looking from the side view of these three Portuguese, there is very little else in similarity in how the case is designed as can be seen from the image below. The variation of shape and thickness to accomodate the different calibres.
Fundamentally, all these elements of the Portuguese design must be kept together for it to work. An example of how a small variation of design can change how collectors will react to it is the Portuguese F A Jones Limited Edition. That design had a Serif Font arabic numbers which was printed rather than embossed or applied. Also, for some, the font now appears far too large and indiscreet compared to the original San Serif sytle. While the Breguet hands and onion crown appears to be a nice change to reflect the watch's history with pocket watch movements, somehow the whole watch has lost its identity that I come to expect.
So is there more to Portuguese line's success is in its basic yet austere design? Quite unlikely. Classic elements and design is often the key to first impression. Fortunately for IWC, this design continues to please its owners and remain in collections for many years. Small details continue to please like the very slightly off white dial on this Choronograph (shown here with a tailored honey crocodile strap). I believe that regardless of what design changed that may come for the Portuguese line, the original and current Portuguese will continue to garner new fans and please collectors for many years.
Portuguese Chronograph Stainless Steel with tailored strap
Saturday, September 13, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 1 Comments
Mr Peter Chong, the respected moderator of Timzone's Lange Forum was at my place recently to photograph a few watches and he had on his wrist this beauty. Peter a very discerning collector is also a fan of Grand Seikos like myself and Su Jia Xian. The SBGC003 is a spring drive chronograph from Grand Seiko is a big and heavy watch that is bristling with state of the art technology but yet completed at the very highest standards that Grand Seikos are known for. The Spring Drive technology has been honed to near perfection by Seiko and provides the drivetrain for some of GS's top end pieces. It should not surprise collectors that this watch retails near S$10k (or USD6700) with very little discount - if you can find any.
Just click on the images here to see a larger version of the watch and study how well the movement is finished and clearly visible is the beautiful column wheel and how the bracelet is finished to the highest level by any brand.
- HT
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
I have created a set of Zoomify images of the DB25Sil for viewers to enjoy studying the details of both the dial and movement of this watch. Simply click on the image above or on this LINK.
What is quite impressive is that despite the watch being a non working prototype, the quality of the finishing is already quite apparent. Only a handful of blemishes gives it away that this watch is not quite the final product. Can you spot what they are?
Note - To Zoom in on a specific location, simply click on the spot you wish to see enlarged. To navigate simply click hold and drag. As Zoomify images are very large, please be patient with the download especially if you are not on broadband. The enlarged image will eventually be sharp.
- HT
Monday, September 08, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Once again, the Hour Glass was able to bring into Singapore four new prototypes from DeBethune last week for study and probably for the dealer to ascertain comments and interest from the collecting market here. Of the four prototypes I thought that this DB25 Sil spoke to me most. It was a surprising how well the new and the old was subtly mixed together - and it works.
Its nicely sized at about 42mm in diameter but yet slim with an elegant machine turned dial with Roman numerals and an interestingly design pair of hands. At the top a small slit of black and red that is the power reserve indicator. While the dial is unusually classical for DeBethune, the lugs are clearly new style yet not obtrusive. The movement side exhibits all the glory of DeBethune's horological strengths. Innovative design and the use of new tech materials in its distinctive balance wheel. This is indeed a beautiful timepiece in the metal as it speaks to my classical taste.
To view the photomontage of all the images I have of this watch, CLICK HERE.
- HT
Sunday, September 07, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 1 Comments
Here is one of the iconic timepieces of this generation. I had previously photographed this watch in stainless steel but only now have I managed to photograph the very sublime and handsome Rose Gold version.
To download the wallpaper, merely click on the image above. Do note that your downloading of the image is your express assent to use the image in a manner that the image is not to be altered or used in any other manner other than for personal use on your computer desktop.
- HT
Saturday, September 06, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
The Wall Street Journal reported that there is a great tide of change being initiated by Swatch Group, Richemont and Rolex.
The controversy is over the issue of how despite the law that requires watches that are described as "Swiss Made" need at least 50% of the value of a watch movement to be manufactured in Switzerland, many brands can circumvent the rule with less than 10% of the real value of a watch from Switzerland. This is because in practical terms the usual cost of mechanical movements consists of between 15-25% of the total value of the watch. So a brand could possibly use "Swiss Made" by the mere decoration of a automatic rotor as the value of the decoration either by machine or by hand would easily amount to over 50% of the value of the movement. This effectively means that the dials, hands, case, crystal, bracelet, strap, buckle, boxes and even the printing of the papers of any "Swiss Made" model could be made completely outside of Switzerland.
The proposal by the three large groups is that 60% of the value of the watch (quartz) must be created in Switzerland and 80% for mechanical watches. Many small manufacturers fear the change as it would mean either complete shut down of operations or moving the business completely overseas.
The Swiss watch industry needs this shake up to bring some sense of truth to its claims and standards. Swiss Made should mean just that and the customer should not be fooled to believe its a Swiss Made just by the brand, the location of its operating HQ when more than 3/4 of the parts are made from another country.
BMW make and assemble its Z4 cars in the US, Toyota Camrys in Thailand but they do not describe them as "German Made" or "Japanese Made". They honestly inform customers that they are assembled elsewhere.
The controversy is over the issue of how despite the law that requires watches that are described as "Swiss Made" need at least 50% of the value of a watch movement to be manufactured in Switzerland, many brands can circumvent the rule with less than 10% of the real value of a watch from Switzerland. This is because in practical terms the usual cost of mechanical movements consists of between 15-25% of the total value of the watch. So a brand could possibly use "Swiss Made" by the mere decoration of a automatic rotor as the value of the decoration either by machine or by hand would easily amount to over 50% of the value of the movement. This effectively means that the dials, hands, case, crystal, bracelet, strap, buckle, boxes and even the printing of the papers of any "Swiss Made" model could be made completely outside of Switzerland.
The proposal by the three large groups is that 60% of the value of the watch (quartz) must be created in Switzerland and 80% for mechanical watches. Many small manufacturers fear the change as it would mean either complete shut down of operations or moving the business completely overseas.
The Swiss watch industry needs this shake up to bring some sense of truth to its claims and standards. Swiss Made should mean just that and the customer should not be fooled to believe its a Swiss Made just by the brand, the location of its operating HQ when more than 3/4 of the parts are made from another country.
BMW make and assemble its Z4 cars in the US, Toyota Camrys in Thailand but they do not describe them as "German Made" or "Japanese Made". They honestly inform customers that they are assembled elsewhere.
The Swiss regulators need to bring truth in advertising and product description into play before all credibility and trust is lost. Once lost, trust is extremely hard to redeem.
Kudos to the Swatch Group, Richemont and Rolex for initiating this important return to honest practices and honest product description. Lets hope that everyone including those who preach for accurate description practice it.
Read the WSJ Article by clicking HERE.
- HT
Kudos to the Swatch Group, Richemont and Rolex for initiating this important return to honest practices and honest product description. Lets hope that everyone including those who preach for accurate description practice it.
Read the WSJ Article by clicking HERE.
- HT
Wednesday, September 03, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
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