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Following the earlier Sarpaneva Loiste II, I was invited to photograph the latest prototype Sarpaneva - The Supernova. This watch will be limited to only 10 pieces and will be launched in Basel 2007. Unlike the Loiste which was small at only 38mm in diameter, the Supernova is 40mm. Its modified ETA automatic movement will include moonphase, subseconds dial at 8pm and date window at 4pm. The dial and case design is distinctively Sarpaneva.
If this watch intrigues you as it did me, have a look at my photomontage presentation of images I took of this new model. CLICK HERE.

 


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On Thursday 15th March, the local Authorised Dealer of Bell & Ross - FJ Benjamin held a wonderful reception at the home of the Benjamins for the launch of the new BR01 Phantom.

The new Phantom is a stealth watch with a dial that appears to be all black - even to the wearer. It was however described as a watch intended to be as discrete as possible for those in the services that needs a undistracting dial. An interesting feature is that the makers and hands while indistinct in natural light will glow in green indefinitely through the darkness longer than other luminous elements.

To view the other images I snapped of that evening, CLICK HERE.

 


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Rumours of this had been circulating for some weeks prior to the official unveiling. Finally Lange unveiled the Lange 31 in Dresden last week.

Reaction to it has been mixed. Most observers have no doubt that the 31-day power reserve stored in two massive mainsprings, is a remarkable achievement, but are less kind to the design (uninspired?), size (46mm diameter and 230g weight) and price (about EUR130,000).
The Lange 31 is typical Lange based on the information I've seen so far - anachronistic, technical tour de force of the utmost quality - but I will wait till SIHH in Geneva before I pass final judgement on this watch.
Click here for more photos and the press release posted on ThePuristS News Central forum. Vigorous discussion of the Lange 31 can also be found on Lange forum of ThePuristS.
- SJX
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Thanks SJX for this most interesting update on an important new release from Lange. While I do have great desire for long power reserve watches and I am impressed with the great technological advances achieved to make this watch feasible, I think there will be very few who would be needing a 31 day power reserve watch for the sake of its long PR. So from that point of view, it looks like a solution looking for a problem.
The first edition of this watch has an understated dial and a huge case. The first being typcially German but the second is uncharacteristic. Understandably the movement is huge and needs a large case but typically, most will associate such huge cases with sports watches. Clearly this model is not a sports watch but neither is it a classic dress. Hence it will have problems with position itself in the market. I think the most idiosyncratic aspect of this model is the need for a huge key to wind the watch. The key is itself an engineering tool of perfection and not just a common key.
Notwithstanding my reservations, the world of luxury watches is less about functionality today and more about quality, desireability and rarity. In that regards, Lange - and this model - has these by the bags full.
I also note that my good friend and renowned watch expert Mr Peter Chong published a report on this monumental timepiece. In addition to SJX's report above, this report is also worthy of a look for Lange fans. To view it, CLICK HERE.
-HT
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In preparation of their Omega Thematic Auction to be held on 14-15th April 2007, Antiquorum is conducting a world tour of the Omega watches to be auctioned. Aptly named Omegamania, this touring event is a wonderful enriching date on the calendar for Omega fans. On 12 March, the Antiquorum Omegamania Gala Dinner in Singapore was held at The Fullerton Hotel where the two day exhibition was launched for the public to view the valueable timepieces.
I was at the dinner at the kind invitation of Dr Bernard Cheong and together with SJX we published a report of the evening's programme. To view the report - CLICK HERE.
Also, my good friend and world renowned collector and Lange Moderator, Mr Peter Chong also filed a report with great photos. His report is found HERE.
For those interested in viewing the auction pieces, do visit the Omegamania homepage and download the catalogue at this link - Omegamania Homepage

 


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Daniel Roth will unveil the Perpetual Calendar Time Equation with days of the month indicator at Baselworld 2007. Aside from the typical perpetual calendar functions of the day, date, month and moonphase, this watch also has the equation of time function, which indicates the difference between mean time (the time you see on a watch) and actual solar time.

Mean time assumes the earth orbits in a perfect circle, hence a constant 24 hours a day. But the earth's orbit is actually ellipse shaped, resulting in days that are not exacty 24 hours, and thus making the equation of time function indispensable.

In addition, the days of the month indicator (pictured), indicates the number of days in that particular month, an especially useful feature since most people find it hard to recall the number of days in a month.

Something else to note is that this model is one of the first Daniel Roth watches to use both 18-ct. gold decorated with spiral guilloche as well as mother of pearl for the dial. The luxurious mother of pearl complements the technical look of the exposed calendar gearing perfectly.

An exclusive preview of this watch, including more photos and technical information, can be found at the Daniel Roth forum of ThePuristS (which is moderated by an ignorant, self-proclaimed watch expert), or click here to see the post.

- SJX

 


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When I first read the headline of the press release of this new watch, Titanic-DNA, I immediately felt that this model, and possibly the little known brand as well, had taken a wrong turn to make the watch special. The brand Romain Jerome claims that this new watch will be made with authentic parts from the Titanic.

For many, the ship is the final resting place of those who died on that ill fated maiden voyage. Since its discovery, it has been reported to have been pillaged by salvage teams.
It is most unfortunate that the brand had somehow felt that there is some benefit in using the steel and metal salvaged from the Titanic. I wonder if they had considered whether the exercise can end up being symbolised as the worst in watch marketing.

I cannot fathom how the Titanic - which sank on its maiden voyage - could be associated with desirability. Historically it represented the ignorant pride of the time, when humanity revelled in its own success and excesses and believed that they can do anything through the technology. There were many who believed then that the Titanic was an unsinkable ship. I am quite sure I would not wish to associate with that part of history.

Most of all, I felt it was rather appalling to use the name of Titanic as well as its metal parts. This too much like the desecration of the remains of the ship which is the final resting place for many.
What were they thinking? There is no such thing as bad publicity as long as it gets attention?

Click here to read ThePurists.com Romain Jerome Press Release Report .
P.S. Curiously a check on the brand's website shows no information about the watch or its press release. Have they seen the light? The Romain Jerome homepage.
POSTSCRIPT: The Irish Post reported on 2nd May 2007 titled "Titanic timepiece launch is branded "a disgrace"- the British Titanic Society took issue for the use of the sunken ship to commemorate the watch. READ THE REPORT HERE.

 


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Urwerks are niche market watches. Large, expensive and exclusive. Their starwheel movements are not groundbreaking horology but their expression of creative designs is on the bleeding edge. Here is a UR103 White Gold photographed in black and white. A challenging watch to photograph but creative possibilities in photographing it is limitless. Hope you enjoy the montage. To view it, CLICK HERE.

 


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This watch has a feature that fundamentally challenges the old school approach to making a watch more accurate - a double balance wheel movement rather than a tourbillon. The first time this was used was in Dufour's Duality. Unlike the Duality however, the FP Journe has two time zones on the dial side by side. A watch that is no longer in production, this timepiece has grown in stature and desirability. In my opinion, the Resonance will continue to hold the attention of collectors for a long time.
To view my photomontage of this exquisite timepiece, CLICK HERE.
HT
(PS - Watch is the property of a friend and gentleman collector)

 


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A remake of the original Radiomir ref. 3646, the Radiomir 1936 'California dial' was announced in 2006, and only just started arriving at authorised dealers. Needless to say the watch has generated tremendous interest, obtaining one is difficult and involves a long wait.

Fortunately, a good friend of ThePuristS and Watchinghorology kindly allowed Harry to photograph his watch. I preempted Harry and posted the photos on ThePuristS here. Without a doubt they are some of the finest photos of this watch.

Like the original, the Radiomir 1936 is 47mm in diameter. But instead of the Rolex calibre, this contemporary remake has the Unitas cal. 6497, otherwise known as the OP X, also found in numerous other manually wound modern Panerai watches.

But that is missing the point. The main attraction of a Panerai is not the movement, but the dial. This style of dial, with a combination of Roman and Arabic numerals is colloqially known as the 'California dial'. The term only began to be used widely in the eighties, when a redial company based on California refinished large numbers of Rolex Bubbleback dials in this style. Of course the Roman and Arabic number mix predates that, the original Panerai ref. 3646 dates to the 1930s, and Rolex was using this design some years before that, and the original 3646 was made by Rolex too.

Panerai cleverly made the luminous indices and hands on this 1936 with a brownish tinge, so this modern 1936 resembles the battered and worn (and very valuable) originals from the thirties. Normally I am against such faux aging, but in this case the watch is immensely attractive. Together with the blue steel hands, the aesthetic of this watch is perfect. If it had the JLC 8 days movement found in the PAM190, this would be the ultimate Panerai.

-SJX

More photos of the watch can be found here.

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POSTSCRIPT: I have published my usual photomontage of this series of images for my Virtual Watch Musuem. To view this presentation, CLICK HERE.

- Harry Tan

 





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