Sunday, January 20, 2008
posted by SJX 2 Comments
(image from the official Sinn website)
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Thanks for the great news JX! News of the new Deep Sea Chrono from Sinn was first heard back at Tempus when Herr Lothar Schmidt confirmed its coming release. Looking at the images in your report, the watch still has the character of the U series. The look does seem identical to the U2 GMT model especially the hour and minute hands. Clearly the crown has been upsized considerably. What I like about the design is that its a tricompex (three sub-dials) that looks like a bicompex (two sub-dials) chrono. Sinn claims that this new chronograph function is operable even at its maximum depth rating. This is no small feat as there are only a small handful of mechanical watches in the world that can do this.
Fortunately, the case has not grown any further from U series 44mm, but the height of 18mm will prove to be somewhat difficult to wear on daily basis.
The new models, especially the black version - will most definitely appease the pent up demand for the black tegiment/pvd U series first seen with the limited edition Tempus U1.
I just checked the Sinn site and used Google to translate their German language webpage. For those keen to read the official release in English - Click Here.
- HT
I just checked the Sinn site and used Google to translate their German language webpage. For those keen to read the official release in English - Click Here.
- HT
Mont Blanc recently partnered with Minerva to launch the Villeret line. The new watches are handsome and well made with respectable calibres. Closer inspection of the movement as shown here showed that the watches were well finished and comparable to the best. However while the watches reeked with discernable quality, I somehow felt that the designs were almost undistinguishable from the other top marques. At the price point where the series is positioned, I would have expected a classical design - which it is, but with something that would make it immediately identifiable.There is also the question of whether the partnership between Minerva and Mont Blanc has brought it validity for its claim to position itself within the very tight and closed group of top Swiss watch marques. Many brands have tried and it remains to be seen what else Mont Blanc has in its long term plan to position itself securely at the top. Fortunately for Mont Blanc, its already commonly seen as a top luxury brand - at least for its renowned writing instruments. So brand identity is not in issue. Whether the blue chip brand can be identified as a top watch brand, will very much depend on how the market react to the Villeret and future lines. I think Mont Blanc has assured itself at least with some limited success.
Click on the images to see them in full web size.
ADDENDUM -
Read SJX's report of the Mont Blanc Villeret Cocktail launch where more of my images of the watches can be viewed. CLICK HERE to read it.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
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Thanks JX!
Wonderfully readable article and I recommend it highly for those who are unfamiliar with the types of chiming and striking watches in the market. It is unfortunate that such forms of watches are usually on the extremely high end of the luxury market. Fortunately there is the mechanical alarm instead of chimes or repeaters, and some affordable ones in the market today are like the used Revue Thommen Cricket and the GP Traveller.
- HT
Thanks JX!
Wonderfully readable article and I recommend it highly for those who are unfamiliar with the types of chiming and striking watches in the market. It is unfortunate that such forms of watches are usually on the extremely high end of the luxury market. Fortunately there is the mechanical alarm instead of chimes or repeaters, and some affordable ones in the market today are like the used Revue Thommen Cricket and the GP Traveller.
- HT
Monday, January 14, 2008
posted by SJX 2 Comments
Clearly much has been already said about this watch here over the past weeks so further adjectives will hardly add any understanding to the watch. So I am very glad to share here these images for collectors who are unfamiliar with the model or Grand Seiko watches.
Amongst Grand Seiko fans, its is renowned that they have the consumate ability to keep extremely accurate time to a level that I have not seen in any other mechanical watch.
Having been drawn to it myself for its austere classic looks (it reminds me of the early seventies and my first watch I ever owned), I am still impressed by Grand Seiko's level of finishing quality and materials (despite having seen the whole spectrum of Swiss luxury watches). While this model does not have an open back where many judge the level of finish, one only has to look closely at the dial, hands, markers and case work of this watch to know that Seiko has not spared any expense to perfect the watch. Just look at how well the deployant is made and finished.
One lasting impression of this particular model is the dial material and colour. It looks very much like enamel and its almost translucent. Some have even described it as "liquid finish". Described as ivory or cream coloured, this dial does not affect the readability of the hands and markers. Even though there are no luminscent paint - for which I am very thankful - as such material tends to flake and deteriorate over time, the time is very readable due to the fine faceting of the markers and hands.
Having been drawn to it myself for its austere classic looks (it reminds me of the early seventies and my first watch I ever owned), I am still impressed by Grand Seiko's level of finishing quality and materials (despite having seen the whole spectrum of Swiss luxury watches). While this model does not have an open back where many judge the level of finish, one only has to look closely at the dial, hands, markers and case work of this watch to know that Seiko has not spared any expense to perfect the watch. Just look at how well the deployant is made and finished.
One lasting impression of this particular model is the dial material and colour. It looks very much like enamel and its almost translucent. Some have even described it as "liquid finish". Described as ivory or cream coloured, this dial does not affect the readability of the hands and markers. Even though there are no luminscent paint - for which I am very thankful - as such material tends to flake and deteriorate over time, the time is very readable due to the fine faceting of the markers and hands.
I confidently expect that these watches will last more than one lifetime with minimal service and support needed.
To view the photomontage of the Grand Seiko GMT - CLICK HERE.
- HT
(P.S. You may download the image above for a desktop wallpaper. Just click on it and save. Please note that the condition of use is that you honour my Copyrights over the image - that means you are not to do anything with it apart from using it as a desktop wallpaper. Please do not alter nor crop, or distribute or do anything that is considerd a breach of my copyrights.)
To view the photomontage of the Grand Seiko GMT - CLICK HERE.
- HT
(P.S. You may download the image above for a desktop wallpaper. Just click on it and save. Please note that the condition of use is that you honour my Copyrights over the image - that means you are not to do anything with it apart from using it as a desktop wallpaper. Please do not alter nor crop, or distribute or do anything that is considerd a breach of my copyrights.)
Sunday, January 13, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Coming this weekend - the GS GMT. Come back to see it, I am sure you will not be disappointed.
- HT
Friday, January 11, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
Even at the very early days of my sojorn into horology, I was drawn to this classic beauty. The Limited Edition Portuguese Jubilee. Produced back in 1993 it was at that time a watch that was released at the wrong stage of horological history - when big watches were not yet in vogue. Ironically it was a homage to the original specially ordered by a pair of Portuguese merchants for a watch that was considered extreme in its proportions. Produced in small numbers in Platinum, Rose Gold and Stainless Steel, the watch has since become one of the most desirable classics in the watch market.
The watch has grown from strength to strength and its one of those mythical watches that fuels the belief that watches can be a financial investment. The steel version was released at USD8300 and today it fetches close to USD20k - where many have argued that it may have already reached a point too far for a mere stainless steel three handed classic. But such is the nature of man's desires. Its not in the inherent value but the perceived beauty that collectors have seen to value it that highly.
But aside from its financial value, I have found this watch to be classic without peer as its design is very simple yet the workmanship and quality can easily be seen. When I was invited by its owner to have the watch for a day, I of course agreed to photograph it. Click on the images to see the full sized versions.
- HT
(Watch belongs to a private owner who asked to be kept anonymous)
Wednesday, January 09, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
A director of a mid-sized Singapore watch retailer was recently sentenced to 3 weeks jail for inflating marketing costs of one of the watch brands the retailer carried at the time. Click here to read the full story on the Straits Times website.- SJX
posted by SJX 0 Comments
The Gefica is a conundrum for watch collectors. The case is made of Bronze, a metal not considered to be a precious metal nor one with repute of being capable of being used for a watch case due to its soft properties. When I heard of the concept of the watch I thought that it was an idea hatched out of bored watchmakers who had nothing better to do - or worse the idea of a crazed marketing or ad men. Having seen the mock up and now a piece owned and worn by Dr Bernard Cheong for a year, I can just fathom what they are trying to achieve. A norm breaking watch that will age with time giving the case a different patina depending on how its used and where it is located as its environment will affect how the metal ages. Further, the design sandwiches the old world bronze with new world titanium to give it strength and rigidity needed. Interestingly Genta went with the "rivet look" that enhances the impression of this watch case being part of early history.
Do look carefully how well the dial and movement space had been isolated from the Bronze metal so that it will not be affected by the oxidation. Judge for yourself as a whole, does this watch makes sense? What ever you decide, Gerald Genta must be commended for trying something different and intriguingly norm breaking.
Click Here to see the Photomontage of the Gefica.
Saturday, January 05, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
English language information on the Grand Seiko is even more uncommon than the watches themselves. In an effort to alleviate that problem, I've written a short article on the Grand Seiko and its background. Click here to read it.- SJX
Friday, January 04, 2008
posted by SJX 3 Comments
As I sit here typing my draft post to end the year, I smile to myself as I recall what a rollercoaster year 2007 was horologically. Finally Tempus returned to Singapore and serious collectors all over the world converged at Raffles City Singapore to learn, hear, view, touch, inspect, photograph and in some cases buy timepieces of note. Clearly the Tempus was the highlight of the year for collectors and brands alike. All credit goes to the vision of Mr Michael Tay and his team at the Hour Glass for conceptualising and realising such a gathering of industry. Conceptually a variation of the annual BASEL and SIHH exhibition - for collectors and watch enthusiasts instead of the industry itself.
The impact of Tempus I have learnt has since reverberated to all parts of the globe resulting similar events being planned such as one executed in Paris. I have heard rumours that even Tempus itself may possibly be syndicated to overseas where the HourGlass itself could be partnered to bring its expertise and network with the brands and collectors together in another venue. So exciting times ahead.
As for the watches launched and seen in 2007, of note were MBF no.2, Omega Hour Vision, Glashuette Original's Rattrapante, Chopard Mark 3, and the Breguet Fusee Tourbillon. Easily the most important watch for me is the Breguet Fusee Tourbillon. While its not a watch that many can afford, it will most definitely be within the list of important contemporary watches of this generation. There were others in the title chase but Breguet has for me, won this important title. The other important release for me, is the Chopard Mark 3. This may surprise many but for me, it’s the return to basics and Chopard has designed and made a beautiful dress watch that can be worn to the office. Yet it is being priced at the entry level of luxury watches. With such a fine movement, finishing and design, it will easily be a sell out and collectors should get one - if they can find it.
The year is not without its low points. The first being a new brand that chose to launch itself with the use of steel recovered from the Titanic vessel. It is a tragedy that such a creative industry with so much talent and capital had to go so low to gain market position. Enough said.
Then there was the report of how some auctions had been manipulated by brands to raise its profile and status amongst collectors by publicising the high confirmed auction prices transacted. I did not report this on the blog specifically but it had left a bitter taste in the mouth for many and I am no exception. Though I do not frequent auctions it’s the thought that collectors are being duped by all means and sundry by unscrupulous brands and the watch industry can be disheartening. My fellow collectors will always remind me that brands are businesses and they are in it for the profit - howsoever they wish to package their information about their brand and watches. That is painful medicine to take but it is a good reminder how we should be careful in our pursuit of collecting watches.
In contrast to the low points, the Revolution magazine, a homegrown watch magazine has reached international status with it being syndicated in Russia various parts of Europe and US as well. Horomundi.com - the associated forum with Revolution also gained credible growth of following from the local and regional collectors. Their participation and partnership at Tempus was evident.
WatchingHorology was also very fortunate to have Mr Su Jia Xian as a guest blogger and he has kindly contributed some of his views and his respected insights of the goings on here and the industry.
What is in store for the new year? Yet again, drawing out the proverbial crystal ball, I think brands are realising that there is only so much that can be done to add complications. More emphasis I believe than ever before will be focused on design and positioning of models in the collectors' ladder of desires. The industrial mechanised look has spread and taken root and watches that do not have any complications are given a complicated look - appear to be the call of the day. Almost every brand of note has also launched a black watch. I am not sure if this trend will continue nor will there be a strong market for black cased watches. However, for me the Tempus U1 is a wonderful success as its honest watch with real virtues.
I hope that this year, as I did last year - we will see the return to sanity for the way watches are being priced. The Chopard Mark 3 is one such virtuous watch. I hope that more brands will follow suit.
Regards
Harry Tan
Harry Tan
Tuesday, January 01, 2008
posted by Harry SK Tan 4 Comments
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