Monday, December 31, 2007
posted by SJX 0 Comments
"Can the Japanese watchmakers make comparable luxury timepieces to match the Swiss?"
Click here to find out the answer.
Happy New Year to all readers!
- SJX
Click here to find out the answer.
Happy New Year to all readers!
- SJX
This is an image of the Gefica Safari that has a case made of Bronze. This specific piece belongs to a private owner who gladly wanted to share the watch as being a well worn timepiece with all its tarnish and copper oxide glory. At first I thought that this is an odd feature. Now I am not sure. It has a very old world charm about it. Much like a trinket from the Ghenghis Khan period. Clearly a watch not meant to be molly coddled or polished. Its big and brash and easily makes all tough sports watches look prissy by comparison.
Could this be the new trend for 2008 watches? A hark back to time where experimentation of metals and amalgams were the norm? Will 2008 be the year that brands experiment with metal oxidation and tarnish as a standard finish?
In any case, keep an eye out for the photomontage of this new piece coming out soon.
Sunday, December 30, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
I do not get this question often but its an honest question about where Japanese horology is heading. While there aren't any renowned individual Japanese watchmakers, the two familiar household brands - Seiko and Citizen are not without its high end offerings. Citizen has its Campanola range which are beautifully made watches with high complications (just Google Campanola and you will find many of its images). The materials and finishing are top notch but purists find it hard to buy these pieces as it is powered by a quartz movement.
For me, one of the most well kept secrets of the world of horology is the Grand Seiko collection - from Seikosha or Seiko to the rest of the world. Its mechanical movments both winding and automatic are designed and made completely inhouse. Its finishing are by machine but to a level of quality that no other brands have succeeded by the use of machines or robots. Clearly intended to be a top quality collection and very low production numbers.
Both the Campanola and the more expensive Grand Seiko are priced within the Rolex and Omega price ranges but their quality of materials and finish are easily equal or even better. Unfortunately they are hard to come by not just because they are low production models but they are not marketted outside Japan - unless bought through grey market dealers.
To attest to how the Japanese treat these models, they are favoured over many Swiss brands of greater fame. They buy and give Grand Seikos as a mark of respect and to honour achievements. I think the best analogy I can make is that Grand Seiko is the Lexus of the watch world before they became renowned as being a top luxury car. Without any doubt their exacting accuracy, high quality materials and the level of finish easily puts them equal to many top Swiss luxury brands.
Friday, December 28, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 4 Comments
Daniel Roth watches are coming back to the fore. Some years ago for some reason its popularity waned in the onslaught of several new dynamic brands. In their wake, Daniel Roth appeared like a yesteryear brand. But in my review of the top luxury brands, Daniel Roth has a strong street cred with serious collectors for its capability of delivering very high quality timepieces. Earlier I published images of the DR Grand Sonnerie - a complication that only a handful of brands can execute completely inhouse. Here however, is an aesthetic champion from DR - The Lumiere Skeleton Tourbillon. There are many skeletons around and even more pretenders. To appreciate what a good skeleton watch should look like, study these images. For me, the only real contender with this DR is the Breguet Messidor.
The picture above modelled by Su Jia Xian shows how beautiful the watch sits on the wrist.
CLICK HERE to see the photomontage of the DR Skeleton Lumiere Tourbillon.
- HT
The DR Skeleton Tourbillon was photographed with the kind permission of the Daniel Roth Authorised Dealer - The Hour Glass Singapore at its Millennia boutique.
posted by Harry SK Tan 2 Comments
The McGonigle Brothers the first independent watchmakers out of Ireland. In this interview published on the AHCI forum of PuristSPro.com, the brothers talk about how their beautiful tourbillon and what has influenced their creations.Click here to read the interview.
- SJX
Sunday, December 23, 2007
posted by SJX 0 Comments
When I was invited to photograph this watch, I agreed with gratitude as its one of the most impressive tourbillons around. Considered by many as an important watch, the skeleton tourbillon can be admired from both the dial and rear. With so much details to be captured, I thoroughly enjoyed myself pouring over the watch with my camera lens.
During the shoot, I had with me my guest blogger Su Jia Xian - who coincidentally is the Daniel Roth Moderator at ThePurists.com - and I got him to model the watch for me.
Over the long Christmas weekend I hope to be able to find some time to process the images for me to do justice to this watch. Come back soon and check it out. You will not be disappointed.
- HT
Saturday, December 22, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Its Christmas weekend and despite the many chores needed to be done, I could not resist processing and completing this set of images. Complex movements are a joy to photograph and this Rattrapante easily rates amongst the most impressive movements I have photographed. The dial design is distinctly Glashutte Original but the finish quality is clearly improved over their previous chronograph pieces. This platinum model is expensive but operating the movement buttons one almost forgets how much it costs as it has a sweet smoothness in the button action. The quality of the finish is just a tad shy of its German stablemate - Lange & Sohne.Check out the photomontage here and see if you agree with me about how beautiful the movement is.
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
The new GO Rattrapante has finally arrived on our shores. This new chrono's movement is beautiful and I found myself staring at the great many details of this watch during my photo shoot. Come back soon as I should have the photomontage of this important watch published within this week.
- HT
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
Some weeks ago, I was approached by Ms Sonia Kolesnikov-Jessop of International Herald Tribune for some input on an article she was working on (see post below). Her questions were simple but the answers it deserves isn't.
She asked about master watchmakers who essentially exist as a one man-show. The kind of watchmakers who does almost everything themselves - from design to fabrication. She wanted my opinion as to why amongst collectors, they are interesting or good.
My considered reply was as follows and I thought it would be useful to share this -
"For me, the draw of the solo independent is the artist's desire to be pure to his ideals and designs and not compromise with (part) supplier's quality (or limitations). One expected quality of the independent watchmaker is the obsessive attention to details over every aspect of the watch.
For the obsessive collector, this is the holy grail of watches - to have a watchmaker who will obsessively make sure everything is made carefully and has his hands on every single element of the watch. Its almost akin to Leonardo Da Vinci drawing his invention and ultimately finish building it from scratch. Because the dial, case, movement is made from one pair of hands, it will never be repeated to the same level of (unique) quality by any team of watchmakers.
Using cars as a metaphor, the hand made Rolls Royce or Bentleys are always put together with a greater luxury feel. Very few cars have that same look and feel, even though the look may have aged, quality never goes out of style. However, the downside is extreme high cost of doing everything in house.
The economic laws of specialisation forces watch brands - even the premier brands to outsource or acquire many common parts such as screws, case, crystals, mainsprings etc. Economically it does not make sense to have these made in-house. Just as would Mercedes, BMW or even Rolls Royce will not manufacture their own tyres, spark plugs, brake pads. They are usually made better when produced by specialised businesses. So they are a lot more reliable and their cost considerably a lot lower. However, I have to say that there is a growing trend of brands pricing their simple luxury watches not far from those hand made by independents.
Finally, one very strong attraction of the sole independent who does everything - supply of the watches from him will be very low due to the constraints he makes on himself. Thus providing a key investment ingredient of rarity."
Using cars as a metaphor, the hand made Rolls Royce or Bentleys are always put together with a greater luxury feel. Very few cars have that same look and feel, even though the look may have aged, quality never goes out of style. However, the downside is extreme high cost of doing everything in house.
The economic laws of specialisation forces watch brands - even the premier brands to outsource or acquire many common parts such as screws, case, crystals, mainsprings etc. Economically it does not make sense to have these made in-house. Just as would Mercedes, BMW or even Rolls Royce will not manufacture their own tyres, spark plugs, brake pads. They are usually made better when produced by specialised businesses. So they are a lot more reliable and their cost considerably a lot lower. However, I have to say that there is a growing trend of brands pricing their simple luxury watches not far from those hand made by independents.
Finally, one very strong attraction of the sole independent who does everything - supply of the watches from him will be very low due to the constraints he makes on himself. Thus providing a key investment ingredient of rarity."
An addendum to this comment would be that, fortunately for collectors, there are a myriad of independents of differing strengths to cater to the demands of collectors. Some are truly solo, others work in teams or even have a few co-workers or employees.
There are independents who are world renowned for their finishing of watches such as Dufour and Voutilainen. Then there are ground breaking design independent watchmakers and Vianney Halter comes to mind. Then there are innovators who seek to find new solution to horological problems such as Roger Smith and Volker Viskosyl whose first masterpiece is still in the works.
The whole host of independents of both the AHCI and lesser known - each are fighting to remain pure to their ideals and strengths. I admire them all - too many to name. The great gift they have to the community of collectors is their passion and their willingness to cater to the growing demands of bespoke watches for that one off timepiece.
Best of all, not all independents are astronomically priced.
- HT
Sunday, December 09, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
The International Herald Tribune published an article today about the challenge of master watchmakers who manufacture watches in their own name, on their own - who are becoming a real alternative to collectors that want something avante garde or different from the offerings from the renowned brands. In this linked article, I was asked of my opinion and was quoted but it was part of a longer reply - to which I will post in full here later.
Do check out the link and see if you agree with the writer's slant and opinion of how independent watchmakers have found themselves in the market.
IHT ARTICLE - ONE MAN WATCHMAKERS CHALLENGE THE LUXURY BRANDS.
- HT
Do check out the link and see if you agree with the writer's slant and opinion of how independent watchmakers have found themselves in the market.
IHT ARTICLE - ONE MAN WATCHMAKERS CHALLENGE THE LUXURY BRANDS.
- HT
Saturday, December 08, 2007
posted by Harry SK Tan 0 Comments
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