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A new computer rendered photo of the Vianney Halter Cabestan was released (click on it to see a larger copy). While it looks like a photograph of a real watch, I was informed that its a computer generated image.

The details on this watch clearly reflect's Vianney's desire to keep an old fashion clock look and feel to it. What an amazing watch this will be when it is delivered to market.

 


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The new Quenttin is quite a dramatic timepiece. Jacob & Co's new watch is designed with two cylinders. Its limited to only in
99 pieces in White Gold; 18 pieces in Rose Gold and 18 pieces in Platinum. The dimensions are a hefty 56 x 47 x 21.5 mm.

The movement consists of a vertical mechanical movement with manual winding escapement, incorporating Swiss anchor mounted in a Tourbillion cage. The watch winds with an integrated key, external hand key or with a motorized system in the box.

The watch comes with a very long power reserve of 31 days, supplied by the energy of 7 gold coloured barrels and displayed through vertical rolls.

Its very hard not to be impressed or have an impression on seeing this watch. However, its very distinctive similarities (e.g. the two horizontal cylinders) with Vianney Halter's Cabestan is too close to be ignored (see earlier post here).

What impact will the Quenttin have on in the watch world? Being first to be released to market (as it is already being sold) before the Cabestan, the Quenttin will probably sell out before the Cabestan is even ready for the market. Both Jacob & Co and Vianney Halter cover a very small niche market of esoteric collectors but these pieces are wonderful pieces of engineering - despite their huge price tags.

The real question to me is not - why is the Quenttin so similar to the Cabestan but rather - how many other brands will follow suit in terms of design concept and cues? In an industry that has growing reliance on design recognition in an ocean of "me too" watches, it looks like it is inevitable that there will be more similar looking watches - even one as unconventional as the Cabestan.

Vianney's design was - in his words, during a conversation we had together about his Cabestan during his recent visit to Singapore - inspired by his love for watch tower mechanisms. The chain and fusee is the first in the world to be exhibited in an open movement. Personally, judging by how the two watches work, I think the Cabestan shows a more exiting movement and an easier way to read the time.

I look forward with the hope of seeing these two watches side by side someday to make a comparison. (Click on the picture to visit the Jacob & Co page for more photos and specifications of The Quenttin)

 


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The Vianney Halter Gold Pfeil is one of those special watches that seems to grow on a watch collector. The Gold Pfeil range of watches was an experiment that did not seem to work. Maybe it was too many at one go or it was the unfamiliar name being associated with the independent watch makers. However, recent history has shown that if managed properly such projects like the Harry Winston Opus project can make the watch desirable.

Notwithstanding the Gold Pfeil name, this Vianney watch is quite outstanding in real life. Its one of those very special watches that will remain unique from all other pretenders yet enjoyed for a very long time.

To view the photomontage, CLICK HERE

 


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On 23rd May 2006 Audemars Piquet hosted a wonderful dinner for collectors and purists from Singapore at Senso an Italian restaurant. At the dinner, with good food and wine, AP's curator of its musuem presented on the wonderful history and the critical movements it has recently launched. Also shown were the latest pieces from their collection.

The report of the dinner is now available online jointly published by Su Jia Xian and myself as the photographer for the evening.

To read the report CLICK HERE.

 


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Vianney Halter in his visit to Singapore in May brought his much anticipated Trio Prototype here for us to look at. I took the opportunity to study the watch in great detail and recorded it in photos. To view this yet to be produced watch - CLICK HERE

Hope you enjoy the show!

 


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During their recent visit, the AHCI Master watchmakers Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter and Peter Speake- Marin allowed me to photograph close portraits during their time here. I collated several of the best and published here for AHCI enthusiasts. CLICK HERE to view the photos

 


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The Luxury of Independence Tour in Singapore - event report has been published online.
To read the comprehensive report jointly published by Su Jia Xian and myself, CLICK HERE or on the picture on the left. The link will transport you to the report found on the Purist.com site.

Hope you enjoy the report!

 


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One of the most controversial issues that will arise in the watch industry in the next 5 to 10 years will be the definition and meaning of "Swiss Made". I think it will become controversial because of the expanding use of outsourced services. In particular the potential outsourcing of manufacturing and assembling of movements from China in the near future.

In my online research I discovered that the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry has published their definition. To read it, click on the photo on the left. Interestingly, the Swiss legislation has a statute that specifically regulating the use of "Swiss" in watches.

A watch is considered to be Swiss if:

  1. its movement is Swiss;
  2. its movement is cased up in Switzerland; and
  3. the manufacturer carries out the final inspection in Switzerland.

A movement is considered to be Swiss if:

  1. it has been assembled in Switzerland;
  2. it has been inspected by the manufacturer in Switzerland; and
  3. the components of Swiss manufacture account for at least 50 percent of the total value, without taking into account the cost of assembly.

Also for the case of a watch, it is considered to be Swiss if:

  1. it has undergone an essential manufacturing operation in Switzerland (stamping, turning, or polishing);
  2. it has been assembled and inspected in Switzerland; and
  3. over 50 percent of the manufacturing costs (excluding the value of the material) are due to operations carried out in Switzerland.

What is interesting and an eye opener is how the requirement for the watch movement and case needs only to reach 50% of total value and the watch is still deemed Swiss.

Theoretically, you can still have a "Swiss" made watch even though almost half of it may not be from Switzerland!

 


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The Academie Horlogere des Createurs Independants (AHCI) - is an assembly of independent watchmakers created to preserve the pure art and craft of mechanical watch-making.

Three of their revered brethen - Philippe Dufour, Vianney Halter and Peter Speak-Marin will be showcasing several of their newest as well as their most respected pieces in Singapore at the Millennia Walk Atrium from Friday 19th May for two days.

The event is hosted by The Hour Glass which organised the Bangkok (15 – 16 May), Kuala Lumpur (17-18 May) and Singapore (19 – 20 May) tour by these three masters.

The timepieces on display amongst others will include the Simplicity by Dufour, the Classic, Antiqua and Trio by Halter and the Piccadilly by Speake-Marin.

For those who truly enjoy high horology, the exhibition is a must. If you are fortunate enough to be in Singapore this weekend, go see the collection at the Atrium from this Friday evening. You may just get the opportunity to see and speak to these three venerable masters of Swiss Horology as well as admire their watchpieces on display.

If you cannot be at the exhibition - come back in about a week or two as I am planning to publish a detailed report of the event as well as detailed photographs of the wonderful timepieces.

 


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It just reported a few days ago in the Straits Times that the a Singapore inventor working with HealthSTATS International has developed and obtained US FDA approval - for what looks like an ordinary casio digital wristwatch - with a 24hour blood pressure monitor.
Medical studies have shown that it is far more accurate to have 24-hour blood pressure monitoring rather than a single blood pressure reading. The watch has also met European and American standards for blood pressure measurement.
The watch keeps constant tabs on a person's blood pressure, but does away with the cumbersome cuffs used in conventional monitors. Patients wear the device like a normal watch, and take it to the centre to have their blood pressure patterns analysed, including peaks and dips when they occur.
The company, has reported that it has produced the special watch for gongfu superstar Jackie Chan and his father, said that he is also in the process of making a special gold one for the Sultan of Brunei.
While there are many multifunctional watches, this new timepiece can be literally be a lifesaver.
Read the Report here: Wear this watch for 24-hour monitoring of blood pressure

 


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The TimeTV is new broadband television about watchmaking. They wrote to me and kindly offered to mutually co-link our sites. The TimeTV site is still under development but there are already some interesting AV materials there. They are planning to provide viewers with a regular newsletter about the latest news in the watch industry. Have a look at their site here: http://thetimetv.com

 


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For many who have not learnt how to configure their RSS to receive automatically updates from blog postings. I am providing an old school service - my postings on this blog direct to your email account. Simply click on the REGISTER HERE link found on the right column here and you will receive an email whenever I put up a new post. Give it a try - you can always deregister if you do not like it!

 


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The FP Journe Chronometre Souverain is a watch enigma for me. For the longest time I thought that the watch was all hype. I thought it did not make sense that the watch costs over S$30k for a simple platinum watch (the only complication is its power reserve display). Even the Octa with multiple complications cost a few thousands less (as I recall the price).

Fortunately for me a good friend and gentleman allowed me to photograph his watch. By handling the watch and seeing it in real life, I can understand why its going to be a popular classic very quickly - and what the hype is all about. The case and dial seems intentionally designed to look antique. But the beauty is in its simplicity and balance of the dial despite the two indicators (sub second and power reserve). It has the inexplicable X factor that makes the watch really special. I have changed my opinion. This watch is wonderful despite the cost. For those who like simple classics and can afford this watch - you WILL be placing an order for it.

To check out the photographs CLICK HERE.

 


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On 3rd May Jaeger LaCoultre hosted a dinner to present their new 2006 watches to Purists and JLC enthusiasts and collectors. To read a report of the dinner filed and published by me on the Purists, CLICK HERE. Or click on the photo to be transported to the report directly.

 


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Finally, after much pains in editing and post processing of many dozens of photographs, the photomontage is ready for viewing. Amazingly most of the Datograph shots turned out well but many of the Panoretrograph shots did not have the same success. Only a handful of dial shots of the Pano survived the editing scissors. Hope you enjoy it!

Click on the photograph or CLICK HERE to view the photomontage

 


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This is a close up of the movement of the wonderful Lange Datograph. In my opinion, this is the finest rendition of a display back on a chronograph today - by any brand. Notice how there are different grades of polish including the mystical black polish.

 





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Horolography - noun, the art of photographing timepieces

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